The ZW Block Pant is finally available to purchase and many of you have asked how we did the little pleat detail to bring in the bottom of the hem, so here it is! This is a very simple yet effective way of bringing in the width of the hem. It works particularly well for softer fabrics with a nice drape. The pant pictured below is our ZW Block Pant in a washed linen/wool blend, this fabric was absolutely beautiful and this detail worked super nicely here.
The trick to doing this pleat is to make sure that you follow the line of the top pleat all the way down to the hem. Start by either laying your finished pant on a large flat surface or have them hanging neatly with a coat hanger. Pin your pleats in place on both legs, making sure they are even and that they each measure the same distance away from the side seams. The amount to pleat should be similar to your top pleat (which changes slightly for each size).
Once you have pinned your pleats in place do a top stitched square to secure this down.
NOW FOR SOME TROUBLESHOOTING!
Once finished there are some things to check so that the pleat is sitting correctly. Make sure that when hanging your pleat looks flat and neat from the top all the way down, without any wobbling along this folded edge, try your pants on to check.
If you do have some wobbling this may mean that the angle of your top pleat is not sitting quite right, but don’t worry this is an easy fix! Simply pinch up a small amount of your top pleat until the pant sits flat again, and then insert this excess into your waist band. The part that you adjust should only be the pleat section, a small amount can make a big difference here!
And lastly IRONING. I would not recommend ironing in your crease all the way along, this could impact the way the pant falls, if you want to give it a little iron though you can press the hem section and then hang and gently steam the rest of the pant.
And that is it, super simple! You can buy our latest ZW Block Pant Pattern HERE. And if anyone has any requests for tutorials please get in touch, we would love to hear from you! info@birgittahelmersson.com
Bx
